Au revoir, Paris

I am at the airport all alone. No more cousins (though I'll see Elena
tomorrow). I have SO much time before my flight so I got a manicure.
They turned out like Barbie nails!!

I had such a great time in Paris with John and Elena, but can't wait to sleep in my own bed tonight. There's nothing like returning home.

R.I.P. Blanca

My beloved family dog died today. I am so devastated and cannot stop crying. She was the sweetest dog and I loved her so so much. I will miss her forever. These are photos I took of her on Madeline Island this September. It was one of the places that made her happiest, I think.

This afternoon Elena and I went to buy food for dinner tonight. On the way we stopped at the Pâtisserie des Rêves. It is a beautiful little pastry shop not far from our apartment that a friend told me about. We were very hungry for lunch but knew that we wouldn't be able to eat proper food for a while, so we bought brioches.

The most delicious, flaky brioches! It did kind of spoil my appetite for lunch, but it was worth it! Everything in the shop looked so pretty. They even have baking kits to take home with you.

We went to the Grand Epicerie to buy food for dinner and got sidetracked looking at the beautiful shellfish! I have never seen so many scallops in their shells. I didn't have my phone so Elena took photos for both of us. There was a young French man taking photos next to Elena. I have never seen food displayed so beautifully as at the Grand Epicerie.


John requested two Bresse chickens, so we went to pick them up. I watched as the butcher chopped off he head (with feathers and beak and everything) and then the still scaly feet. Even though it was hard to watch, I couldn't not. It was fascinating.

Samedi

We tried many times to get a good photo of the two of us, but this is the best we could do. I love that Elena seems SO happy and excited that she can't stand still!! This was taken right after we got our awesome boots, so maybe that's what has her all hyped up?

Yesterday we had a two and a half hour lunch at Taillevent. It was delicious and luxurious. There were so many different people waiting on us!! The manager (at least I think he was tw manager) was adorable! He first complimented my tattoo - never happens here - and then when he heard that we came from the states, lifted his lapel to show me a tiny, hidden American flag pin. He then tapped it and said, "toujours ici". It was so adorable!!

Tonight we are having a little dinner party. I have four friends who all happen to be in Paris at the same time so John is going to cook us a delicious meal! Elena and I are going out soon to buy some cheese and delicious desserts, as one can only find in Paris. I can't wait to see everyone!!

Chaussures

We have been having a wonderful time here in beautiful Paris. John, Elena and I are in a cozy, well-appointed apartment in the 6th. The weather has been beautiful and sunny - perfect for walking through the city. John has been enjoying all the food and wine while Elena and I plan our shopping trips. The first thing I saw in the Bon Marche was an amazing pair of Vanessa Bruno boots. I decided to give myself a day to think about them so as to avoid any impulse purchases. I didn't have to think long. Yesterday both Elena and I got them (it took visits to three different shops, but we found them!). The minute I got back to the apartment I put them on and practically pranced with joy. While John thinks we are ridiculous to 'torture' ourselves in such a way, he still offered to take a pretty picture for this blog.


Very different from my photos of elephants and African adventures, but just as beautiful to me!!!

Today we are headed to Taillevent for a delicious and indulgent lunch. We are all dressed up and looking quite respectable - I'm leaving the new boots at home, though, so I can walk off my lunch this afternoon.

Paris, je t'adore!!

On Monday I got back from Botswana. I did a river safari (a Trans-Okovango) in the Okovango Delta. Last year around this time I went on a TO with mom and Elena and we had such a fabulous week that we decided to book another trip this year. Mom did not come this time, but my brother Matt came along with new additions Ellen and Josh. It was another wonderful week on the river.


This was my third trip to Africa and I was thinking positive the whole month leading up to it. I told myself that in the month of June I had seen all the travel problems and would see no more for at least another year. This was not to be. We landed in Johannesburg and my bag was not there. Big bummer. The next day we flew on to Botswana (the airline people assured me my bag would make it there within 36 hours). It was great to see Elena - even better to see the clean clothing she had for me to wear. For the next two days we went as a group to the airport to wait for our bags (Josh and Ellen were also missing their luggage). Air Botswana were no help. I grew accustomed to hearing such things as, "I cannot help you", "Maam, if your bags were put on the plane they would be here", and "Your bags are not here". All said with no sympathy and very little care. We went on the trip without the luggage (since no one could tell us when our bags would arrive) and it became the subject of many jokes. I was extremely happy to see it finally when we got back to Maun after our week on the river. In the meantime, the views were so beautiful as to make me forget the dirty clothes I was wearing...


We saw many elephants on the river this year. Many more than last year. We even got to see a few cross the river. It is so beautiful to see these huge animals move. They are surprisingly graceful and quiet.





This photo (above) is not metered correctly and not a favorite, but I decided to post it anyway. We took a walk with Captain after lunch one day and came upon this elephant. He kept moving closer to us, which was exciting, but scary. As I was taking this photo Elena was yelling at me to move because the elephant was getting too close. They move very fast for such large animals. It is amazing how much more secure one feels on a boat with a powerful engine than on human legs.


In the photo above you can see a Fish Eagle. They are the chickens of the Okovango (Elena told me that). They are everywhere. Their prevalence does not diminish their beauty to me.


This is Josh (in the turban) and Elena fishing. Matt is probably sculpting a hyena or a hippo - only the scary animals.




We saw so many vulchures on our last afternoon (I am going to say hundreds). They were in the air and on the trees. There must have been a fresh kill on the ground.


As I have said, it was a wonderful trip. I really enjoyed spending time with my brother and cousin and also getting to know Ellen and Josh. Five days on a small boat is a great way to get to know people quickly (missing baggage also makes for good bonding). We are already planning our trip next year.

Malawi

I got my 35mm film back today. While most people now use digital cameras (and I do understand why) I still love my old Nikon. Papa gave it to me for my 14th birthday and it still works beautifully. One thing I love about film is the anticipation. I took these photos of a witch doctor ceremony at the beginning of our trip and have been waiting anxiously to see how they turned out. I am very pleased with the photos. We sat in a small room with all the people seen in these photos and listened to them sing together and dance. It was so interesting to see. Perhaps not the most authentic since we paid them to perform for us. Though we were there to watch them we were just as interesting to them. Not a lot of white women in Malawi.




If you look at the picture above you can see the woman on the right nursing her son. At one point there were about four women nursing in the room. Elena told me that breasts are not considered an erogenous zone down there. Obviously they are way too hum-drum. It's all about the legs in Malawi.


We went to a town market in Ngala to look for the beautiful printed fabrics all the women wear around their waists. Though we did not find any that we liked we did buy oranges and bananas. As Elena was bargaining down the price I took photos of these men with their bikes. The people in Malawi are very friendly and happy to have their photo taken.


This is where they sell the meat. On the left is the swaddled head of the cow and the wheelbarrow contains the innards. I was happy to stand and look from afar but Elena got right in there and checked it all out.

It is wonderful to look back at these photos and remember all the great things Elena and I did!

Kinderhook

These are apple cider donuts. It has become a tradition to go get them every time we visit Kinderhook - they are so delicious I can't imagine this is at all original.

Fourth of July in Kinderhook was wonderful. We had perfect weather and made sure to spend as much time as possible outside. On Saturday we went to the Jagermeister Derby, a local event. One of out group even won! There was a big Jagermeister themed party afterwards. One of their toys is a ShotSki (doesn't that sound Minnesotan?). Here is a picture of the amazing contraption:



I can't wait for our next trip up to Kinderhook.

Home

I am home in Brooklyn now and happy to be here, though sad without my travel buddy. I loaded all the photos from my phone today and had so much fun looking over everything. It is pretty amazing to think that a month ago Elena and I were in Malawi! I will slowly post some of my other photographs from the trip, but found these two on my phone and thought they were worth sharing today - and they remind of all the fun we had. 

On our drive back to Lilongwe (the last day of our time in Malawi) we saw many people selling sugar cane on the side of the road. Elena suggested we buy some to see what it was like (all those people with blackened teeth didn't deter her). We did not think about the logistics of buying a five foot piece of sugar cane and eating it in a moving car. Since Elena was driving it was up to me to break it into smaller pieces. I managed to break it into smaller-ish pieces, but not small enough to make things easy. I thought the moment deserved commemorating. Here are some pictures of us trying to eat sugar cane in the car. 

Paris?

I am in an airport hotel in Paris for the night. I wish I were on my
way home by now but am stuck here. A wonderful man from British
Airways took me around and made sure I got a free hotel room and my
bag. He then walked me to the shuttle and made sure I knew how to get
to the hotel. So so sweet. He was my savior when no one else wanted to
help. Maybe it was the tears in my eyes that did it.

Last night Elena and I went out to dinner with our new friends (the
same girls I went around with when she was sick). Chetna, Indu and
Anuja came with us to Cafe Clock to have dinner and listen to music.
They wanted to go get a drink somewhere but the people at our Dar told
us the only women who do that are prostitutes. It was a really fun
evening. Anuja and I were told by a 12 year old that we are beautiful.
It was creepy. Just a warning: if you go to Fes and decide to eat at
Cafe Clock DON'T eat the chickpea salad. It will come back to haunt
you. Over and over and over.

I am very sad to be stuck here without Elena. I felt lost running
around the airport without my travel buddy. It's ok, though. We're
already planning future trips.

Bye bye Africa

Tomorrow morning Elena and I will be off home and very happy to do so.
I have really enjoyed Morocco but it is very hard to be so different.
We stand out here and it attracts a lot of attention. On our stroll
this afternoon we got many calls and comments (more than usual) and
there were some very agressive people. One man said things to me that
were so vulgar I can't write them here. I am still shaken. If I were
in my home town I would know how to react. Here I don't know what to
do but be passive and walk away. Anything more could attract more
unwanted attention. It was much easier with a protective guide
yesterday. I will try and remember the kind people here and the
beautiful things I have seen.

Fes Sunset

One more day in Fes! Tomorrow we leave for home.

Last night was a big family style dinner at the Dar. It was on the
roof and really beautiful.

Tanneries

We visited the tannery in Fes today and it was very cool to see but
smelled TERRIBLE!! They gave us mint to smell and I practically shoved
it up my nostrils to block out the smell. They use pigeon poop to
clean and soften the hides. That's where the stink comes from.

This is one of the very narrow alleyways we walked through today. Our
guide warned us not to eat too much couscous.

Elena didn't feel well today so she stayed in the hotel to rest. I was
invited by a very nice trio of girls (two sisters and their cousin) to
join them. We had a lovely time but I did miss Elena.

Mosque

This is one of the doorways to the mosque in Fes.

Shame On Her

This is a picture from lunch today. The woman in the middle ground
took out a plastic bag, placed it in her lap and snuck the leftover
fruit from her deasert in it. We thought it was very tacky and so I am
putting this picture up - plus you can see the pretty restaurant and
our delicious salads.

Our Riad is very near the main mosque in Fes. It is called the
Kairaouine Mosque and was built in the 9th century. It is huge (almost
11,000 sq feet) but we are not allowed in. We did walk by on our way
to lunch and the doors were open. I caught a few glimpses of endless
archways and beautiful tilework. Fes feels like a very ancient city.
We are in a section of re Medina where cars can't enter. It's just
lots and lots of tiny winding streets. So different from anything I
have seen before.

Our train ride yesterday was hot and long. The air conditioning
basically quit halfway through. Because we were on the train from
start to finish we had a rotating selection of companions. There was a
very nice couple from Palo Alto who we chatted with until Casablanca.
Quite a few people sat in the empty seats but were eventually ousted
by the conductor and sent back to second class. A bus driver told me
about Fes and his relative in Tacoma before he got booted. By the time
we reached Fes I was hot and sticky and just wanted a cold shower.
Elena and I were both snippy and a bit grouchy by the time we reached
the hotel.

Marrakesh

Elena rode a camel (well an animal related to the camel, but with one
hump - I forget the name). She is watching it pee in this photo. I did
not ride one because I wore a dress today. And it was fun to watch her
hold on!!

For the past two days we have been led around Marrakesh by Jalil, our
very sweet guide. I think he liked us because he took to saying,
'okay, family, let's go'. He took us to the Bahia Palace (former
residence of a prime minister) where we saw painted ceilings, amazing
tile work and the typical (but no less resplendent) carved plaster
archways. He also explained the intricacies of polygamy in the
Moroccan culture. Not to be taken on lightly.

Jalil also took us into the souk - an intricate winding network of
workshops, galleries, restaurants and shops. We found some small
things and some bigger things that are hopefully already on their
long, slow trek to Brooklyn. It was fun to see, but exhausting!
Bargaining is hard work.

Tomorrow we take the train to Fes. It will take up to 8 hours but we
look forward to watching the landscape change as we read and play
cards (we even bought an Uno deck and have become quite competitive!).
And it is air conditioned!!!

House of Storks

We are saying at Dar les Cigognes in Marrakesh (it means house of
storks). Named for the many many many storks that nest on the wall of
the royal palace across the road. They are big and dirty and make
funny sounds. Our Riad has a beautiful roof garden where we ate
breakfast this morning. It has a beautiful view of the medina.

We learned how to say no in Arabic and I am going to use it on the
'naughty Moroccan boys' (that is the concierge's phrase) and anyone
armed with henna.

Marrakesh

We finally arrived in Marrakesh after a day long delay. Our Riad is
beautiful. This morning Elena and I took ourselves for a stroll. We
walked to the Place Jamaa Fna (I think that's what it's called). It is
at the southern end of the souk and filled with carts selling produce.
As we were walking through a woman, Fatima, came up to me and
attempted to sell her henna design services. I kept telling her 'no,
thank you' and she showed me where we would be if I changed my mind. I
thought I had successfully put her off, but then she grabbed my hand
and squirted a blob of henna on it!! Her grip was firm and I had to
tug my hand away while yelling, 'no, no, no!! S'il vous plait, non!!!'
Not quite as bad as being peed on by a dog, but I don't have the
energy today to fend off too many more attacks by henna. We strolled a
bit more and then decided to get some mint tea. On the way to the
salon de the we were offered a monkey! He has no tail and that makes
me sad. Off to the hammam this afternoon.

Shells pt. 2

I recently wrote about the strict laws in Mozambique barring the
export of shells by tourists. Yesterday I flouted the rules and
smuggled shells out!! It was risky (kind of) and uncomfortable. I put
a piece of coral in my bra and wrapped some of the smaller shells I
found in a handkerchief and stuffed it in my underwear. Once I got
past security safely I whispered to Elena what I had done. After more
than four hours of flying like this it was a relief to remove
everything and place it in my bag. Now I have some very beautiful and
memorable mementos of Mozambique!

Drunk Men

Yesterday was a big travel day. We were picked up in a Cessna Caravan
and taken to Medjumbe to pick up another couple headed to Pemba for
the Joburg flight. We had to wait out some storm clouds on Medjumbe.
When we got to the bar to sit and wait we saw a few of the party of
Russians who arrived after we left for Matemo. As we sat at the bar
many more large, old, shirtless Russians joined their friends. The
liquor flowed and they were eventually joined by a very pretty, young,
happy girl. She was very affectionate with one of them - because she
is paid to be!!! The Russians not only flew in on their own jet, they
brought a hooker with them as well! Elena took some surreptitious
photos, so check her blog to see some of the men
(sitatungadispatches.tumblr.com).

We eventually made it to Pemba and onto the plane for Joburg. I had a
middle seat in between Elena and a Christian missionary from South
Africa. She told us of her work over the past two weeks and miracles.
Though I do not believe in miraculous healing, it is always good to
meet people with so much faith (as long as they don't try and pull me
in). She moved to an empty row and Elena and I spread out and prepared
to spend the flight playing cards and reading. We were constantly
distracted by the four men two rows ahead of us. During the course of
the two and a half hour flight they consumed about four mini bottles
of scotch each and many, many beers. They were loud and obnoxious and
kept looking back at us, as if their behavior would endear us to them.
They even pulled out their camera and filmed us! So creepy. As we
exited the plane they attempted some catcalls in English and one even
blew us a kiss before exchanging hi-fives with his equally intoxicated
buddy. I definitely prefer sweet missionaries to drunk old men.

This afternoon we were driven to a few of the villages on the island
(only the ones accessible by road). The children LOVE having their
pictures taken - almost as much as they like us to show them the
pictures after. At one point I had a gaggle of them fighting to fit in
the frame. I had to back away and tell them to stay put so I could
take their picture without them trampling me.

Matemo

This is a shell on display in the lobby at Matemo but is very similar
to one I found on Medjumbe. Elena and I walked far, far out during low
tide looking for shells while on Medjumbe. We found many beautiful
things and were so proud (grandma taught us well) but then we were
told that it is illegal to bring shells back from Mozambique! I made
sure to take pictures of all the pretty shells I found. If only I
could figure out a way to bring some of the smaller ones back......

This morning we braved the rough seas to go kayaking. It was fun, but
hard work. For anyone who follows Elena's blog, you may hear a
different side to this story. I want to state that I did not intend
for Elena to tip over. I was playfully pushing her kayak away and
believe that she then became unbalanced by the big waves. I will admit
to paddling away from her as quickly as I could, but that was only
because I feared retaliation. When she called to me I turned around to
help her - the water was not deep. Only just over waist deep. And
there was lots of laughter on both our parts. We made it back to shore
in very good spirits, though one of us was much more wet than the other.