Home

I am home in Brooklyn now and happy to be here, though sad without my travel buddy. I loaded all the photos from my phone today and had so much fun looking over everything. It is pretty amazing to think that a month ago Elena and I were in Malawi! I will slowly post some of my other photographs from the trip, but found these two on my phone and thought they were worth sharing today - and they remind of all the fun we had. 

On our drive back to Lilongwe (the last day of our time in Malawi) we saw many people selling sugar cane on the side of the road. Elena suggested we buy some to see what it was like (all those people with blackened teeth didn't deter her). We did not think about the logistics of buying a five foot piece of sugar cane and eating it in a moving car. Since Elena was driving it was up to me to break it into smaller pieces. I managed to break it into smaller-ish pieces, but not small enough to make things easy. I thought the moment deserved commemorating. Here are some pictures of us trying to eat sugar cane in the car. 

Paris?

I am in an airport hotel in Paris for the night. I wish I were on my
way home by now but am stuck here. A wonderful man from British
Airways took me around and made sure I got a free hotel room and my
bag. He then walked me to the shuttle and made sure I knew how to get
to the hotel. So so sweet. He was my savior when no one else wanted to
help. Maybe it was the tears in my eyes that did it.

Last night Elena and I went out to dinner with our new friends (the
same girls I went around with when she was sick). Chetna, Indu and
Anuja came with us to Cafe Clock to have dinner and listen to music.
They wanted to go get a drink somewhere but the people at our Dar told
us the only women who do that are prostitutes. It was a really fun
evening. Anuja and I were told by a 12 year old that we are beautiful.
It was creepy. Just a warning: if you go to Fes and decide to eat at
Cafe Clock DON'T eat the chickpea salad. It will come back to haunt
you. Over and over and over.

I am very sad to be stuck here without Elena. I felt lost running
around the airport without my travel buddy. It's ok, though. We're
already planning future trips.

Bye bye Africa

Tomorrow morning Elena and I will be off home and very happy to do so.
I have really enjoyed Morocco but it is very hard to be so different.
We stand out here and it attracts a lot of attention. On our stroll
this afternoon we got many calls and comments (more than usual) and
there were some very agressive people. One man said things to me that
were so vulgar I can't write them here. I am still shaken. If I were
in my home town I would know how to react. Here I don't know what to
do but be passive and walk away. Anything more could attract more
unwanted attention. It was much easier with a protective guide
yesterday. I will try and remember the kind people here and the
beautiful things I have seen.

Fes Sunset

One more day in Fes! Tomorrow we leave for home.

Last night was a big family style dinner at the Dar. It was on the
roof and really beautiful.

Tanneries

We visited the tannery in Fes today and it was very cool to see but
smelled TERRIBLE!! They gave us mint to smell and I practically shoved
it up my nostrils to block out the smell. They use pigeon poop to
clean and soften the hides. That's where the stink comes from.

This is one of the very narrow alleyways we walked through today. Our
guide warned us not to eat too much couscous.

Elena didn't feel well today so she stayed in the hotel to rest. I was
invited by a very nice trio of girls (two sisters and their cousin) to
join them. We had a lovely time but I did miss Elena.

Mosque

This is one of the doorways to the mosque in Fes.

Shame On Her

This is a picture from lunch today. The woman in the middle ground
took out a plastic bag, placed it in her lap and snuck the leftover
fruit from her deasert in it. We thought it was very tacky and so I am
putting this picture up - plus you can see the pretty restaurant and
our delicious salads.

Our Riad is very near the main mosque in Fes. It is called the
Kairaouine Mosque and was built in the 9th century. It is huge (almost
11,000 sq feet) but we are not allowed in. We did walk by on our way
to lunch and the doors were open. I caught a few glimpses of endless
archways and beautiful tilework. Fes feels like a very ancient city.
We are in a section of re Medina where cars can't enter. It's just
lots and lots of tiny winding streets. So different from anything I
have seen before.

Our train ride yesterday was hot and long. The air conditioning
basically quit halfway through. Because we were on the train from
start to finish we had a rotating selection of companions. There was a
very nice couple from Palo Alto who we chatted with until Casablanca.
Quite a few people sat in the empty seats but were eventually ousted
by the conductor and sent back to second class. A bus driver told me
about Fes and his relative in Tacoma before he got booted. By the time
we reached Fes I was hot and sticky and just wanted a cold shower.
Elena and I were both snippy and a bit grouchy by the time we reached
the hotel.

Marrakesh

Elena rode a camel (well an animal related to the camel, but with one
hump - I forget the name). She is watching it pee in this photo. I did
not ride one because I wore a dress today. And it was fun to watch her
hold on!!

For the past two days we have been led around Marrakesh by Jalil, our
very sweet guide. I think he liked us because he took to saying,
'okay, family, let's go'. He took us to the Bahia Palace (former
residence of a prime minister) where we saw painted ceilings, amazing
tile work and the typical (but no less resplendent) carved plaster
archways. He also explained the intricacies of polygamy in the
Moroccan culture. Not to be taken on lightly.

Jalil also took us into the souk - an intricate winding network of
workshops, galleries, restaurants and shops. We found some small
things and some bigger things that are hopefully already on their
long, slow trek to Brooklyn. It was fun to see, but exhausting!
Bargaining is hard work.

Tomorrow we take the train to Fes. It will take up to 8 hours but we
look forward to watching the landscape change as we read and play
cards (we even bought an Uno deck and have become quite competitive!).
And it is air conditioned!!!

House of Storks

We are saying at Dar les Cigognes in Marrakesh (it means house of
storks). Named for the many many many storks that nest on the wall of
the royal palace across the road. They are big and dirty and make
funny sounds. Our Riad has a beautiful roof garden where we ate
breakfast this morning. It has a beautiful view of the medina.

We learned how to say no in Arabic and I am going to use it on the
'naughty Moroccan boys' (that is the concierge's phrase) and anyone
armed with henna.

Marrakesh

We finally arrived in Marrakesh after a day long delay. Our Riad is
beautiful. This morning Elena and I took ourselves for a stroll. We
walked to the Place Jamaa Fna (I think that's what it's called). It is
at the southern end of the souk and filled with carts selling produce.
As we were walking through a woman, Fatima, came up to me and
attempted to sell her henna design services. I kept telling her 'no,
thank you' and she showed me where we would be if I changed my mind. I
thought I had successfully put her off, but then she grabbed my hand
and squirted a blob of henna on it!! Her grip was firm and I had to
tug my hand away while yelling, 'no, no, no!! S'il vous plait, non!!!'
Not quite as bad as being peed on by a dog, but I don't have the
energy today to fend off too many more attacks by henna. We strolled a
bit more and then decided to get some mint tea. On the way to the
salon de the we were offered a monkey! He has no tail and that makes
me sad. Off to the hammam this afternoon.

Shells pt. 2

I recently wrote about the strict laws in Mozambique barring the
export of shells by tourists. Yesterday I flouted the rules and
smuggled shells out!! It was risky (kind of) and uncomfortable. I put
a piece of coral in my bra and wrapped some of the smaller shells I
found in a handkerchief and stuffed it in my underwear. Once I got
past security safely I whispered to Elena what I had done. After more
than four hours of flying like this it was a relief to remove
everything and place it in my bag. Now I have some very beautiful and
memorable mementos of Mozambique!

Drunk Men

Yesterday was a big travel day. We were picked up in a Cessna Caravan
and taken to Medjumbe to pick up another couple headed to Pemba for
the Joburg flight. We had to wait out some storm clouds on Medjumbe.
When we got to the bar to sit and wait we saw a few of the party of
Russians who arrived after we left for Matemo. As we sat at the bar
many more large, old, shirtless Russians joined their friends. The
liquor flowed and they were eventually joined by a very pretty, young,
happy girl. She was very affectionate with one of them - because she
is paid to be!!! The Russians not only flew in on their own jet, they
brought a hooker with them as well! Elena took some surreptitious
photos, so check her blog to see some of the men
(sitatungadispatches.tumblr.com).

We eventually made it to Pemba and onto the plane for Joburg. I had a
middle seat in between Elena and a Christian missionary from South
Africa. She told us of her work over the past two weeks and miracles.
Though I do not believe in miraculous healing, it is always good to
meet people with so much faith (as long as they don't try and pull me
in). She moved to an empty row and Elena and I spread out and prepared
to spend the flight playing cards and reading. We were constantly
distracted by the four men two rows ahead of us. During the course of
the two and a half hour flight they consumed about four mini bottles
of scotch each and many, many beers. They were loud and obnoxious and
kept looking back at us, as if their behavior would endear us to them.
They even pulled out their camera and filmed us! So creepy. As we
exited the plane they attempted some catcalls in English and one even
blew us a kiss before exchanging hi-fives with his equally intoxicated
buddy. I definitely prefer sweet missionaries to drunk old men.

This afternoon we were driven to a few of the villages on the island
(only the ones accessible by road). The children LOVE having their
pictures taken - almost as much as they like us to show them the
pictures after. At one point I had a gaggle of them fighting to fit in
the frame. I had to back away and tell them to stay put so I could
take their picture without them trampling me.

Matemo

This is a shell on display in the lobby at Matemo but is very similar
to one I found on Medjumbe. Elena and I walked far, far out during low
tide looking for shells while on Medjumbe. We found many beautiful
things and were so proud (grandma taught us well) but then we were
told that it is illegal to bring shells back from Mozambique! I made
sure to take pictures of all the pretty shells I found. If only I
could figure out a way to bring some of the smaller ones back......

This morning we braved the rough seas to go kayaking. It was fun, but
hard work. For anyone who follows Elena's blog, you may hear a
different side to this story. I want to state that I did not intend
for Elena to tip over. I was playfully pushing her kayak away and
believe that she then became unbalanced by the big waves. I will admit
to paddling away from her as quickly as I could, but that was only
because I feared retaliation. When she called to me I turned around to
help her - the water was not deep. Only just over waist deep. And
there was lots of laughter on both our parts. We made it back to shore
in very good spirits, though one of us was much more wet than the other.

Sunset

The sun is setting in Matemo and Elena and I are headed to the bar for
drinks.

Sea urchins

This is a tide pool (during low tide) filled with sea urchins. I have
never before seen such extremes between high tide and low tide.

Friends

Elena posed a very difficult question to me as we were flying into
Medjumbe. She said, 'Katy, what would you prefer: sea turtles or
kittens?' I realized at that moment that we are getting to know each
other really well.

Sunset on the Indian Ocean

Our first night on Medjumbe we watched the sunset with glasses of wine
in hand.

Medjumbe

This is a picture of Medjumbe island. It is super tiny. There are
twelve little chalets and a small landing strip. Each chalet had a
private deck and soaking pool. Elena and I have been calling this our
vacation from our vacation.

Now we are on Matemo Island which is much bigger but just as
beautiful. We have decided to take a break from laying in the sun and
go snorkeling this afternoon.

Correction

We ate at Costa da Sol. Elena is right more than I am comfortable with.

Seafood

We went to Costa da Mar for lunch yesterday. It is a 'Maputo
Institution' according to my guide book. We managed to order delicious
seafood with no Portugese and a waiter who spoke very little English.
The caipirinhas helped close that barrier. Our table looked over the
ocean. It was lovely.

Kittens!!

After a hectic day of travel yesterday I was SO excited to see tiny
little kittens with their mommy in the courtyard of the hotel this
morning. They are so tiny and cute. A good omen, Elena said.

Tia

This is Tia. Our devoted guard dog.

Nkhata Bay

This is the view of Lake Malawi from our chalet.

Malawi

Sorry for the long absence. Malawi did not make it easy for me to
access the internet. With that one exception, Malawi was wonderful. It
is a beautiful country. Elena says it is called the heart of Africa
because of the kindness of the people. I found that sentiment to be
true.

We spent most of our week here on Lake Malawi at two different lodges.
At Njaya Lodge we were adopted by a dog named Tia. She slept outside
our chalet every night and followed us everywhere. (we are stumped as
to how we earned such devotion. She was way too stinky to touch.)
While sitting on the beach she would growl at undesirables if they got
too close. She did nothing though when another dog snuck up behind me
and peed on my back!!! That was a shock. Elena sat on the beach
laughing as I ran into the water to clean myself off. She has a
picture of the bad bad doggy. While at Njaya we also walked up many
many hills to meet a witch doctor and took a sunset snorkel.

We drove south to Ngala Bay after three days and found an even
lovelier lodge. Our days there were spent mostly reading on the beach.
To get cash we drove a few towns away to a bank in the middle of sugar
cane fields and next to a sugar factory. I drove home on the left hand
side for the first time!!! It was scary at first (Elena promised to
let me know if I was about to hit anyone) but I did pretty well, I
think.