On The Road

Dinner

2011-04-23T19:36:00.001-07:00

I made dinner tonight for my brother and sister. Who remembers when that last happened?! For this exciting occasion I wanted to make something delicious, but also easy.

I made tuna burgers from Gwyneth Paltrow's new cookbook (topped with soy sesame mayo and arugula), salad with miso soy dressing and potatoes roasted with some of the duck fat in moms fridge (yum!). It was delicious - and I think Matt and Rosie enjoyed it. For dessert I made blondies (not even close to healthy, but very tasty).

It was a wonderful evening and now I am getting ready for bed so I can be well rested for Easter tomorrow!

Winston

2011-04-22T15:46:00.001-07:00

I am home for the Easter holiday in chilly Minneapolis. In the past two days I have gotten in lots of quality time with my sisters dog, Winston.

He is a big sweetheart. After quite a bit of playtime he was too tired to get his toy again, but managed to crawl near it before taking a break.

Today before lunch, Papa and I took him to the park. I have never seen Winston so excited. He ran all over to inspect branches on the ground and various other objects (the day before he found a decaying animal and lovingly buried it at the foot of a tree).

He was reluctant to leave the park and lagged behind on he walk home.

Until he realized there was a treat in Papa's hand and then he ran fast up the hill.

Waffles!!!

2011-04-06T14:20:00.001-07:00

After hearing all about the waffle carts from Caroline I asked John if we could visit one. He found a little pod where we went this morning for a late breakfast/early lunch. These food carts are so cute!

I got the big top: a whole wheat waffle with spinach, tomatoes and eggs. Yummy on a cold rainy morning.

Location:Portland, OR

Portland

2011-04-06T14:16:00.001-07:00

Portland has been nice and relaxing. We have had some very erratic weather. Yesterday was sunny with blue skies! Such a relief after the all day rain on Monday.

On the walk to John's place yesterday evening I had to stop to take a picture of this beautiful tree. The blossoms are so beautiful.

SF

2011-04-04T18:39:00.001-07:00

We had a lovely weekend in San Francisco. The weather was warm and sunny. Perfect. Our first night we went to Chez Panisse.

It was a very nice meal shared with my brother, cousins and new group member, Martha. The food was delicious and unpretentious. I only wish I hadn't had quite so much wine.

The next day we went to Tartine, my favorite place in SF. It was a mob scene so we took our delicious goodies to a nearby park and had a yummy picnic.

They have the best sandwiches. I was so sad to leave some of it behind, but it was too much food!

That night Matt, Elena and I went to Saison for a supremely beautiful meal. The service was friendly and easy and the food looked as beautiful as it tasted!

This guy isn't so pretty, but he tasted fresh and delicious!

We are in Portland for the week. I hope to get some nice photos of the beautiful cherry blossoms!

Last day

2011-03-03T18:46:00.001-08:00

Tomorrow I head back to Brooklyn and chilly weather. I think I can handle it after these past few days in the hot sun.

We took a quick trip into town this morning to get Ellen and Josh Benadryl and I saw some crazy condoms in the store. This is a very bad picture, but these are called 'fiesta' condoms.

They also have 'Tropicat' condoms. People must have crazy sex here!!

A little family of chickens wandering through town.

And one last beautiful sunset.

St. Lucia has been lovely. With the exception of the bird sized moth flying around my bathroom earlier, I have enjoyed it all. (It was a really big moth. I skinned my knee a little bit when I dropped to the ground and curled into a ball to avoid it.)

Location:St. Lucia

Desi and Jonathon

2011-03-02T18:05:00.001-08:00

We went out on the same boat today, but for the whole day. Desi is the name of our captain and he has a young helper, Jonathon. We went farther around the island and stopped in a few towns. Jonathon (a very small fourteen year old) was our guide off the boat. He joined us for lunch and told us all about school (children are taught English, French and Spanish in school and learn creole at home). He was very sweet and later we learned that he had been suspended from school and that is why he was on the boat in the middle of the week.

This rock formation (which looks kind of like a stegosaurus) has a little bridge in it. I was very nervous about going under it, but we made it!!

I surprised myself at how nervous the boat made me. I have no problem flying all over the world, but big waves freak me out!!! Thank goodness I was the only one with frayed nerves. The confidence of others does seem to help.

This is the cathedral of the immaculate conception in Castries (the 'big' city). It was interesting to see the influence of different generations and styles in one building. It was a nice escape from the crowds coming off the cruise ships (so glad they can't dock on our side of the island).

This is for Elena. Saw this sign and thought of you. We miss you and are so sad you couldn't join us.

Location:St Lucia

St Lucia

2011-03-01T14:48:00.001-08:00

I am in St Lucia with Josh and Ellen and it is heavenly! They rented a beautiful house complete with a breathtaking view.

That is the Gros and Petit Piton.

We spent most of the day at the house since the roads are so bad that it is hard to go anywhere. This afternoon we went on a little boat ride and that is clearly the way to get around the island.

There was rain on and off, which resulted in a beautiful rainbow.

It was a perfect and complete arc.

Tomorrow we're getting on a boat for the day to snorkel and see more sights.

Miami!!!

2011-02-17T13:36:00.001-08:00

Hello from sunny Miami!! It is hot and lovely here. I spent the afternoon reading in the blazing sun and am now covered in a light dusting of freckles. Feels so good after the long east coast winter.

I got bumped up to business at the very last minute and sat down next to a very interesting man. We barely exchanged a few words, but I couldn't help glancing at him from time to time. He had a shoulder length leonine mane of greying hair and wore a long blazer over spandex running tights and sneakers. His carry on luggage was the most beautifully patinated Louis Vuitton briefcase and bag. Inside his briefcase were fancy car magazines and a playboy. First time I have ever seen a man reading a 'girly mag' on a plane.

Location:Miami, FL

Cooking class, part two: cooking and eating

2011-01-22T17:10:00.001-08:00

One we returned from the market we brought everything to the kitchen. Alejandro gave us all aprons and pencils and paper. He really did most of the cooking with a little help from us (I did not do anything. Just sipped on my Mezcalini and took notes). He is a very passionate and easygoing cook. No recipes - he did attempt to list everything for us so we can try and make things again at home.

Beautiful herbs

Chiles and vegetables (later used in the mole)

Simmering pots

The wonderful Alejandro Ruiz

He tried to show us how to filet a fish

I sat back with my delicious cucumber mint mezcalini and took notes (it's vacation!)

Once everything was about done, we all sat down at the table while Alejandro finished everything up.

Shrimp and lava bean soup with cactus leaves

Sea bass with tomato marmalade and capers (my favorite)

Yellow mole with filet

For dessert he whipped up a yogurt fruit puree with vanilla. It was light and refreshing.

It was a wonderful final day in Mexico!

Location:Oaxaca, Mexico

Cooking class, part one: shopping

2011-01-22T16:29:00.001-08:00

We took a cooking class today with Alejandro Ruiz, who runs the restaurant here as well as the Casa Oaxaca restaurant nearby. I had high expectations since the food at both locations is so good, but I never expected it to be so fun!! We took the class with two other women - both from Minnesota!! - and they made it a lot of fun. One now lives in Mexico City but used to live a block away from me in Brooklyn and the other lives in Manhattan and used to waitress with my cousin's babysitter, Bev, in Mpls years ago! There was a lot of MN and NY talk.

The day started with a trip to the market to buy the ingredients. I just love visiting markets when i travel!! We bought fresh masa dough for the yellow mole.

Then we bought all the fruits and vegetables.

And chiles

The meat was already waiting in the kitchen, but it is always interesting to see all the American health codes thrown out the window (other cultures seem much more daring with their food)

Lots of grasshoppers for sale

We bought sun-dried shrimps for a soup

And then we bought fresh fish

Fresh zucchini blossoms for garnish

I kept bumping into piñatas as we walked around

Location:Oaxaca, Mexico

Santo Domingo

2011-01-21T16:57:00.001-08:00

The Santo Domingo church's cloisters hold a lovely historical and cultural museum. While the exhibits were interesting (especially the photographs of the revolution) the space itself was wonderful.

And I saw another of my new favorite Mexican outfits!!!

I will be scouring eBay for something like this as soon as I get home!!

Market

2011-01-21T16:53:00.001-08:00

We took a little field trip outside of town today. I have learned that any time a guide takes you out in most countries they are in cahoots with various vendors to get you to buy things!! It works. I ended up with some things that I will like for a long time and some that may get shoved to the back of a drawer. It was still fun to see the smaller towns outside of Oaxaca.

Today was market day and that was crazy!! So, so many people! And so many things to look at. I took some photos as we walked through the labyrinth.

I just loved the hallways of bread and all those hats!! Mexican men dress like cowboys down here. I love it!!

Agee our hot walk we went to a little place for lunch and a beer tasted to good!

A great label.

Oaxaca

2011-01-20T16:07:00.001-08:00

Oaxaca is beautiful and sunny and the people are so nice! I have taken some time to sit and enjoy the warm sun the past couple of days. All too soon I will be back in cold, wintry Brooklyn.

Our hotel is near the church of Santo Domingo. It is a lovely old church and the young couples seem to love using it as a make-out spot at night.

We went to a couple of museums today and saw some beautiful old jewelry, textiles and clothing. This is my favorite outfit, by far!

The top is beaded and the skirt is covered in sequins!!! The museum shop even had a couple of old skirts like this, but the guy was really sketchy about only accepting cash, so I tearfully said goodbye.

A lunch today a waiter complimented me on my Spanish! While it was very nice to hear all it means is that I say a few words well. It does motivate me to really learn, so that next time I can respond with more than one or two words!

Location:Oaxaca, Mexico

Love

2011-01-19T13:39:00.000-08:00

Bad English makes me smile. I did not order off this menu, but I hope the Juliana of vegetables and wallpaper fish were good.

Frida

2011-01-18T12:13:00.001-08:00

We went to Frida Kahlo's house on the way to the airport this morning. It was so wonderful! As oasis in the middle of crazy Mexico City.

We were not allowed to take any photos inside the house (such a shame as it is so colorful and charming), but I snapped this photo up the steps into Frida's daytime bedroom.

The gardens are so lovely.

I want a house just like this!!

Location:Mexico City, Mexico

Teitihuacan

2011-01-18T07:19:00.001-08:00

I forgot the cord that allows me to load photos from my camera onto my ipad, so I have no photos of yesterday. Bummer.

We went to Teotihuacan, a pre-Colombian architectural site outside of the city. It was so interesting to look at, and nice to walk around (when we weren't being offered cheap souvenirs). There are two huge pyramids there - we decided not to attempt them since walking down a short flight of stairs there was quite scary.

For dinner last night we went to Pujol. It was so, so good! We agreed it was one of the best meals ever. And we had a really nice Mexican wine!

Off to Oaxaca today after a quick visit to Frida Kahlo's house.

Location:Mexico City, Mexico

Mexico City

2011-01-17T13:45:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Mexico City yesterday afternoon. It is sunny and mild. Such a nice change from all the winter! We went straight to the Anthropology Museum - all the museums are closed today, our only day here! They had some beautiful things from all the ancient cultures wiped out by the Spanish.

Some of the exhibits were displayed outside. It was beautiful.

The museum is in the middle of a park and is free to all Mexicans on Sundays. It was nice to see so many families there.

This piece is made from so many tiny feathers. So beautiful. I can't imagine how much time it took (or how many tiny, little birds).

I couldn't resist taking a picture of this guy. I think the nicest thing to say is that it looks like he is wearing a sombrero on his lap (that was not my first thought, though).

Pushkin, part three: Catherine Palace Gardens

2010-11-14T00:03:00.001-08:00

Before we left Pushkin yesterday we walked around the gardens. While the weather was wet and grey (just like almost every day here!) it was lovely.

There are many buildings throughout the gardens. We did have a map, but it is written in Cyrillic. This building looked like a big music box on the inside. Perhaps for bells?

Another building had mosaic floors and Greek statuary inside.

There is also a Chinese Village on the property.

All for the enjoyment of royalty. I imagine it is stunning in the summer. It was nice to have it all to ourselves, though.

Location:Pushkin, Russia

Pushkin, part two: Catherine Palace

2010-11-13T13:02:00.001-08:00

Catherine's Palace is quite amazing. It is huge. Not only the palace, but the gardens. It was the summer residence of the ruling family and was kept up after the Revolution. During WWII the Germans used it as an army barracks - what they did not trash while they were there they bombed on their way out. The entire palace has been redone beautifully.

None of this was learned from our tour guide. We were not very popular in the palace (for no reason we could determine) and were pushed into Russian tour of the palace. Thank goodness for my guidebook and the Internet! Otherwise, we would have had no idea of the history we walked through.

Details of the exterior.

The Great Hall

The porcelain pieces are wood stoves/furnaces.

Our hotel is the building seen through the window.

One of these rooms has been reupholstered with an original bolt of 18th century silk found in the palace.

We were not allowed in the chapel, but is looks beautiful. Dark blue and gold.

The bedroom. There are many rumors detailing Catherine the Great's sexual conquests and I don't imagine the horses fit in here. It is also quite close to the chapel...

I loved seeing the palace. The amber room was amazing. No photographs are allowed, unfortunately. The detail is just astonishing. One of the original panels is still there and indistinguishable from the new. I am so happy I was able to see it!

Location:Pushkin, Russia

Pushkin, part one

2010-11-13T11:23:00.001-08:00

We took a trip to Pushkin to see the Summer Palace of the Tsar's and the home of the Amber Room. Though it is only a short drive from St. Petersburg, we decided to stay the night. The only hotel in town is located in the former servant's quarters of the palace, with a wonderful view of the palace.

We walked to get lunch through the beautiful gardens. There was a large group of students eating there who had organized for a trio of traditional Russian singers to perform.

They were quite good and fun to listen to.

We fed the ducks in the lake with our leftover bread.

Apparently the summer palace is THE place to have wedding photos taken! I was unable to get any clear shots, but there were just so many brides (in really terrible dresses).

And this was not all! There was a reception happening close to the hotel and another next to where we had dinner.

Location:Pushkin, Russia

Dance!

2010-11-11T12:10:00.001-08:00

After our marathon day at the Hermitage, we went to the ballet! It was very rushed - our hotel forgot to tell us they got is tickets for tonight, not Saturday. It was really fun! Since we don't read Cyrillic, I don't really know what we saw. It was a selection of short dances. I know at least one was by Balanchine. It was all beautifully done in a gorgeous, old theater.

Tomorrow we head to Pushkin for the night. I can't wait to see the summer palace and the Amber Room!

Location:St. Petersburg, Russia

Hermitage, part two

2010-11-11T06:33:00.001-08:00

We went back to the Hermitage today and stayed for five hours! I feel exhausted and proud - we saw almost everything! Truthfully, some galleries we breezed through on the way to others. Neither of us let go of our maps aside from our visits to the gold and diamond galleries when we were accompanied by a museum guide. It is an amazing collection of art. A very different museum than I am used to. While searching for a bathroom we found ourselves in this long gallery.

It seems to double as storage space!!

The highlight was finding the 'hidden treasures' exhibit. On the map the galleries are not colored - possible to discourage visitors? This is where the most beautiful Renoirs are located, along with a Courbet and Monets and an early Picasso. Photographs are not allowed.

Location:Бол. Конюшенная ул.,St Petersburg,Russia

59 north

2010-11-10T21:20:00.000-08:00

This is the sky at 8:20am. I am very far north!!

Triton

2010-11-10T13:05:00.001-08:00

If you are ever in St. Petersburg, do not go to Triton. It was so bad. So bad. They are clearly trying to be something fancy, but it is just ridiculous. We came back to the hotel and ordered food and watched modern family. It is a seafood place and they have fish tanks everywhere. You walk in and there is a fish tank under your feet.

Behind the table there is a fish tank.

The ceiling has sharks painted on it.

And, of course, the toilet is a fish tank.

It bubbles when you flush.

Ocean sounds play while you visit the toilet.

Ridiculous.

Oh, the bathroom door also has a weird anime-ish mermaid on the door.

There was a piano player and he was awesome. I never thought a piano version of 'knockin' on heaven's door' could sound so pretty - seriously. We gave him a nice tip since he was the best part of the evening.

Location:St. Petersburg

Rest

2010-11-10T12:49:00.001-08:00

Today we took is easy. We ordered breakfast to my room (the most insane room service I have ever seen - I won't show photos because I am embarrassed at the amount of food we wasted). Later in the morning we went to the gym and then had massages. It was quite an experience. My masseuse was a compact asian man - this was only the first difference I noted from my massages back home. In the end, I feel less tense, more relaxed and have a great story to tell those close to me.

We took a stroll in the afternoon and visited the 'candyland' church (the Church of the Resurrection of Christ) visible from my window. Unfortunately, we were unable to view the interior, but the exterior is still amazing.

There are so many elements to look at. Each onion dome is different - these are the only domes I have seen with pyramid details! There is a park alongside and even the fence is more detailed than I have seen.

After our walk we had tea at the hotel. It was a lovely late lunch. We each had the Pushkin tea (I am going to have to read something by him - they name everything after him here!!).

Location:St. Peteresburg

Heremitage, part one

2010-11-09T11:29:00.001-08:00

We visited the Hermitage this morning. It is huge and confusing and overwhelming. Also very interesting. Catherine the Great lived there in the winters and accumulated the majority of the art there for her collection. She bought entire personal collections from around Europe (including Empress Josephine's collection of Canova sculptures). We barely made a dent in two and a half hours. Thursday we will go back and stay as long as we are able.

What I really loved was walking through the areas that show the residence as it was used by the royal family. They say it is done in a neoclassical style, but it is the most over the top neoclassical I have ever seen.

This is the peacock clock. There is an owl, a mushroom, a rooster, and a peacock and somehow they are mechanized and the way they move tells you the time. I read the description and still didn't get it. There was a tour guide describing it in Spanish and recreating the movements of all the animals. That was almost better than the pretty gold clock.

Location:St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg

2010-11-08T12:52:00.001-08:00

Our first day in St. Petersburg was really nice. So far, I find it much more enjoyable than Moscow. It feels closer to the other European cities I so enjoy. The Hermitage is closed on Mondays, so we walked along Nevsky Prospect and explored the area around our hotel. As we were walking we saw the monumental Kazan Cathedral.

We walked in just as a small service was taking place. I have never witnessed a Greek Orthodox service, but I hope they are all as lovely as what I heard today. The priests sang the prayers in the most beautiful harmony. The interior of this 19th century church did not move me as the amazing painted interiors of the 16th century churches of the Kremlin. It was lovely to see a functioning church, though.

Our hotel is so close to the Hermitage that we walked around there for a bit. Compared to Moscow, it seems as if we have everything to ourselves here!

Our hotel is on a little canal.

Location:St. Petersburg, Russia

Gooseberry?

2010-11-07T22:39:00.000-08:00

I just ate one of these little berries for the first time. We think it might be a gooseberry. Anyone know what it really is? The taste is nice, but they look so pretty!

Moscow to St. Petersburg

2010-11-07T11:24:00.001-08:00

We left Moscow this afternoon. It was a beautiful sunny morning - after six days of grey, I have come to savor any hint of sunlight.

We were so nervous about the train station! After the horribly confounding Metro, we expected to be completely lost and turned around, but it was easy. The Moscow train station is very pretty, but if you look up at the top, there is a hammer and sickle!

Not a very good picture, but it was taken from a moving car.

The train ride was very uneventful. Not as luxurious as we had hoped - no red velvet or gilding. Just simple, comfortable seats. They even threw in slippers! We took lots of pictures of the passing countryside.

It was snowing when we arrived in St Petersburg. Big, fluffy flakes. Our hotel is right near the Hermitage, so we plan on visiting it quite bit this week. We even got some tips from Bloomberg's St Petersburg cultural guy! I really want to find their 'Hidden Treasures' room with all the unreturned art works from WWII.

Location:Russia

Bye for now

2010-11-07T01:06:00.000-08:00

Bye-bye, Moscow! See you in a week. Please spread this sunshine to St. Petersburg!!

Moskva River

2010-11-06T13:30:00.001-07:00

Some views of the Moskva river.

We walked around this little island after viewing a wonderful exhibit of Lithuanian photography taken during Soviet times.

Tomorrow we are off to St Petersburg!

Location:Moscow

Kremlin

2010-11-06T13:22:00.001-07:00

We made it into the Kremlin today. It was amazing! In the Armory we saw gilded and encrusted everything: tableware, bibles, guns, saddles and bridles. Catherine the Great's silver embroidered gowns were astonishing. Then the Diamond Fund. Wow. So, so many jewels! A 200 carat sapphire and a 190 carat diamond! No wonder the Russian people revolted. They starved while the Tsar was coronated in a 5000 diamond crown.

The churches really blew me away. An entire square filled with beautiful cathedrals topped by golden onion domes.

The doorways are beautifully painted, a hint of what lays inside.

Photographs are not allowed inside, which I totally understand, but it is a shame. Every surfaced was covered with frescoes and icons. When the different parts of Russia were united in the 16th or 17th century (I think) all the icons were brought from all over the country to the Kremlin. The effect is amazing. I am not sure how it happened, but mu iPhone accidentally snapped some pictures while in a church (without flash, of course!). A lucky accident.

These cathedrals (minus the crazy hordes of people who don't know how to walk through doorways) are my favorite sight so far.

Location:Moscow

Metropolitan

2010-11-06T12:57:00.001-07:00

Yesterday we used the Metro for the first time - it is hard! We were on our way to dinner at Elena's family friends house. The concierge gave us the most detailed instructions she could without taking us down herself. Buying the tickets was no problem - sign language works when words don't. We made it through the turnstiles and were already stuck. No idea where to turn. Once Elena pulled out her oh-so-embarrassing folding map we attracted the attention of a sweet English speaking couple. They led us down the stairs and pointed out our way. I was feeling good until we got to the escalator.

It is so steep! I thought I was going to fall over. My hands were braced on either side and I leaned back to fight gravity's force. It was even scarier on the way up.

After the scary escalator ride it was no easier. We found ourselves in a hallway with a platform on either side. None of the stops matched ours, no matter how many times we walked back and forth. Finally, I slapped on a big smile and asked a little old lady for directions - I pointed to the map and smiled. She saved us! Two stops later we arrived at our destination and i was finally able to appreciate how beautiful the metro is!

Some of this beautiful marble was taken from the churches that Stalin had taken down.

The rest of the evening was a blast (despite the terrible directions we received to find the apartment for our dinner party).

Location:Moscow

Oops

2010-11-06T09:05:00.001-07:00

This is what happens when you park in the wrong place in Moscow.

Location:Moscow

A few lessons

2010-11-06T09:03:00.001-07:00

Yesterday the sun came out a couple of times! It is very exciting to see it at all these days. I had to capture the bit of blue sky I saw right away!

We ventured to a local place known for good dumplings. It was very difficult to find (the name we read in our little book is VERY different from the name in cyrrilic). As this is a local place, the menus do not come in English, and neither to the waitresses. For the first time in my life I was happy to have a menu in front of me with a photo for every item. In the past I have hesitated to darken the door of any restaurant advertising their food with photos. All I had to do was point to what I wanted and the waitress understood - though I did end up with very different dumplings than I intended. Also, sushi is SUPER popular here. So many places have a sushi menu and a normal menu. I now think it is ok. This doesn't mean I will be ordering raw fish in the middle of the european continent, but I will happily patronize a restaurant where others do.

Location:Moscow

Rainy Day

2010-11-04T03:30:00.001-07:00

Today is gross and rainy. We tried to go to the Kremlin, but it is closed on Thursdays. Instead we walked down to the Kitai Gorod area to look at onion domed churches. It was nice to get a stroll in before the rain came down harder.

There was a demonstration happening nearby and I have never seen so many police and army in one place - at least in a big city.

There were trucks full of men lining the street. In the underground walkway we walked by at least 50 policemen all lined up. We made sure to look very innocent and foreign.

I don't think we will see the sun at all while in Russia. All my photos are going to be dim and grey.

Location:Moscow

Red Square

2010-11-03T13:03:00.001-07:00

Our first day and a half in Moscow have been grey, not too cold, and very interesting. The first afternoon we were too tired to do much of anything besides trudge to a convenient lunch and back home.

Our hotel is across from the Kremlin and Red Square - makes museum visits very convenient.

This morning we walked around Red Square many times - every time we tried to enter somewhere there were guards blocking our way and gesturing to the other end of the square. At least we got a lot of walking in! We saw Lenin's tomb - he really does look like a wax figure. It was very austere. Elena really wanted her picture taken with him, but we were not allowed to bring our cameras or camera phones in. Then we visited the historical museum. It starts with prehistoric mammoth tusks and goes all the way through to the 19th century. And it can all be seen in an hour!

This is the first time I have travelled to a place where I have no grasp of the language and many people don't speak english. There have been a few occasions when people have spoken to me in Russian and I can't shake the feeling that they are saying something nasty, but with a smile on their face. I am going to try and tell myself that they are simple welcoming me to their city.

Here is Red Square with St Basil's in the distance and Lenin's tomb on the right. Across from Lenin is the shopping mall, GUM, where one can find just about all the major luxury brands (I did not check prices, but assume that it is marked up quite a lot, as is almost everything here).

A statue in front of the history museum. Hard to know who it is when everything is written in a foreign alphabet!

Tomorrow we are going to explore more of the sights in the Kremlin, including the Armory. David highly recommended it - he knows I will want to see all the jewels.

2010-09-24T20:32:00.001-07:00

Last weekend I went to Lake Vermilion in northern Minnesota with my brother and cousins. It was so cold! Thank goodness for deep and tall fireplaces.

We drove by Dyke's Body Shop in Cook, MN and had to all take a picture.

After a day of hiking and an extremely hot sauna we were all happy to sit in front of the fire with a cocktail and read quietly.

A beautiful view of the fire break.

Lake Vermilion from the trail.

I can't wait until next year when (hopefully) we will all go back.

Location:Granelda

Okavango

2010-08-30T10:25:00.001-07:00

I am on my way home to NY now after a wonderful trip to Botswana! Our river safari was just as wonderful as previous years.

We started up north, in Shakawe on a beautiful river boat. We spent our days fishing and swimming. The fish were not biting this time - maybe because we giggled the whole time. I don't think our guide was used to taking out all women.

This is the inside of the river boat with our guide, Greg, at the helm.

After a couple of nights on the houseboat we were picked up by Mike for the trans-Okavango.

We saw so many huge crocodiles on the river this year! They lay on the bank warming themselves in the sun.

The sunsets are so beautiful on the river. All you hear are the hippos in the distance and birds quieting down for the night.

This year we saw much less game than in previous years. I think because the water is so high. There were still multiple elephant sightings.

And we also saw lots and lots of birds.

Our week on the river was so much fun. Ellen is my favorite person to fish with ever! I don't remember giggling so much. We have come up with a brilliant plan to start our own river safari company!! If it were to ever become a reality, it would be disastrous!! But we had the best time coming up with ridiculous ideas!! I think Mike was totally overwhelmed.

This is Elena kissing a fish - she really kissed it!!! She is clearly more daring than I.

I can't wait until the trip next year!

Lazy Monday

2010-08-17T00:18:00.001-07:00

I am finally feeling better today! The fluish aches are all gone and I am left with a very scratchy voice and a sad looking hanky (symptoms sound familiar, Caroline?).

Yesterday I stayed behind at the house while Elena worked at Hilary's. Lucy and Mopipi (her maid and gardener) were both there and it was so nice to meet them after all this time. I especially enjoyed the animals, though. I read on the hammock most of the day and Pepper came to sit with me. It made me so happy!

Elena says she looks like Maria Callas here.

The goats also came to visit me often. It is very difficult to avoid scratching them when they shove their heads into the hammock. Feefee tried to eat my jeans, iPad and water bottle (Elena told me this morning that she had to move my shoes inside because Feefee started chewing on the laces. They are now green)! She is a rascal.

Today I am going to hang out at Hilary's in the morning and watch Elena work.

Borro 1

2010-08-15T04:38:00.001-07:00

Today we had a lazy Sunday morning at Elena's house. I am not feeling well, so it was great to relax and read and drink tea all morning.

While I love the goats, I am more familiar with cute kitties. Salty and Pepper and super affectionate. Elena says they are very shy, but they warmed to me pretty quickly.

I just hope the cats and goats don't encounter the cobra living somewhere near this tree!

If I am home alone and see it, Elena has a very tough neighbor with a gun who will come over and shoot it. It is actually very comforting.

Location:Maun, Botswana

Maun

2010-08-13T09:39:00.000-07:00

I made it to Maun today. The flight was delayed an hour, but what really matters is that my bag made it!! No repeat of last year's desperate scramble for clothes. Elena and I took a walk in the late afternoon so I could see the area around her house. There is an ostrich farm nearby and lots of squatters with their cattle. Off to dinner soon.

2010-08-12T15:07:00.001-07:00

I am sitting in my hotel in Johannesburg after about 18 hours of flying. It is nice to be clean and in a bed. My trip here was interesting. The flights were fine with nothing special to report, but moving through the different airports was interesting. For anyone who has been to the Delta terminal at JFK, it is not a pretty place. I was sitting in the sky club lounge and overheard two very fancy looking ladies talking about how awful it was in the lounge and the terminal, as a whole. One woman even went so far as to say it was 'worse than a third world country'. I hope she either gets slapped in the face, or has the chance to see what an actual third world country looks like. It was pretty gross.

I had a three hour layover in Amsterdam before my flight to Joburg. I think the nasty, fancy ladies would have loved it there! There was even a delicatessen!

This is the cheese section. When do you ever see this in an airport?! There was also a meat section with a large selection of caviar!

JFK is far beyond the third world, but still pales in comparison to the beautiful Amsterdam airport. I had a nice time walking around looking in all the nice little shops.

Tomorrow I fly to Botswana! I am so excited to see Elena and spend time with her before our river trip.

Location:To Johannesburg

Minnesota

2010-07-29T15:48:00.001-07:00

Last week I spent a long weekend with my extended family in northern Minnesota. It was such fun. I always love seeing my family, but this weekend was especially good. We were at a lovely lodge on Gull Lake. The weather was perfect. The clouds were in and out all day, which I think makes the sky more picturesque. One evening we took a boat out on the lake. We almost didn't make it on - there was some mis-communication and they thought we were only 13, not 15. It all worked out, though, and we spent a couple of hours on the lake just before sunset. One morning some of us went fishing. I was in a boat with Elena and Aunt Betsy. We rocked it!! Walleye Dan (that is his name, and he refers to himself this way) took us on his boat while two other guides took others out separately. We pulled in nine fish total (I caught three)! I seem to fish pretty often for a New Yorker - at least twice a year - and this time I finally just grabbed the fish for a photo without hesitation. I am clearly VERY proud of myself. Behind me is Walleye Dan and Betsy. Dan posed this way every time we pulled in a fish. Expect for when I caught a Pike. You have to put your fingers in their gills to avoid their teeth. I'm not ready for that yet.

It was a lovely week in Minnesota. I got to spend time with so many family members up north and in Minneapolis. In two weeks I am off on my next adventure: Africa!

Doggy in the window

2010-06-19T08:27:00.000-07:00

I saw this adorable westie looking out the window of a salon today. So
adorable!! I just love seeing all the scruffy westies in Paris!

Elena and I are in the airport now. My flight leaves in a couple of
hours and then I will be back in steamy NY. It has been nice to walk
around a chilly Paris when I know a hot summer is coming.

2010-06-18T23:52:00.001-07:00

2010-06-18T23:51:00.002-07:00

Montmartre

2010-06-18T23:51:00.001-07:00

Last night Elena stayed in our neighborhood for dinner. The walk to
dinner was lovely. Lots of hills and curving streets and stairs. The
very top of the Sacre Coeur was visible at one point.

Blah

2010-06-18T10:31:00.001-07:00

I just had a very bad Métro experience. We were getting on at the
Madeleine station and Elena didn't have any more tickets, nor were
there any machines to buy tickets, so we slipped in together with my
ticket. For the first time in my life I was approached while calmly
reading by book on the reain by RATP people and asked to produce my
ticket. Since Elena kept it I had nothing to show them. I had to pay
€40!!! It was horrible. So many people were staring at me while I
spoke with the mean men. Yuck. Elena then bought me a yummy sushi
lunch to make me feel better.

Cooking class

2010-06-17T14:28:00.001-07:00

Elena and I took a cooking class today. We met up with the group at
9am just outside of Paris. It included a visit to the market to buy
all the ingredients and then we all got a chance to cook the meal. We
made cauliflower soup with Roquefort and then stuffed lamb shoulder.
The lamb and soup in the foreground are ours.

We had a really nice group of people. Four other Americans, an
Australian woman, a young man from Scotland and a very sweet woman
from Brittany. After we cooked we all sat down to taste our food. It
was simple and delicious. I will definitely recreate it at home!

So mean

2010-06-17T14:24:00.001-07:00

I sent this photo to a friend as a taunt. She told me that if she saw
a photo of me eating a 'framboise' flavored macaron she might just
break her screen. So that's exactly what I sent her. I didn't even eat
that macaron. It is still sitting in the box. Very mean of me.

Even more...

2010-06-17T14:21:00.001-07:00

More Reims

2010-06-17T14:20:00.003-07:00

Chagall

2010-06-17T14:20:00.001-07:00

Marc Chagall designed these windows for the Reims cathedral in 1971
using 13th century methods. The details are completely lost in this
photograph, unfortunately. The glass looked like a painting. So
beautiful.

Reims

2010-06-16T04:23:00.001-07:00

We are in Reims right now. The cathedral is stunning. So intricate and
overwhelming.

Chez Marianne

2010-06-15T04:26:00.000-07:00

I love the Marais!! Lunch at Chez Marianne is one of my favorite
things. Something you just cannot find in NY. We strolled around
earlier and stopped in to meet a friend of a friend at her boutique,
Precursor. It is always fun to come so far and talk about mutual
friends.

Au Bon Marché

2010-06-15T01:52:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we went to Bon Marché to look at pretty things. I was very
good and left with only tights (cause it's chilly here!) and lipstick.
Then we went to the Épicerie to buy some pretty foor or our apartment.
I just love the way they display produce.

Today we are going to the Marais! There will be pictures of falafel
later.

Paris

2010-06-13T21:04:00.000-07:00

After a very bumpy flight on the biggest plane I have ever been on (I
was on the upper level of an airbus) I arrived in chilly Paris! The
happy sight of Elena and our adorable little apartment in Montmartre
made me forget my exhaustion for a little while.

We took it easy on the first day. With some pastries Elena had picked
up and our beloved nescafe we settled down at the table to eat and
catch up. After a refreshing nap we searched for a place to have
dinner on a Sunday evening.

Drouant, near the Opéra, was very yummy. My appetizer was four little
plates of different vegetables. It was delicious. The best was the
chilled zucchini soup with mint.

Our waiter, André, really made the meal, though. I have never had a
more flirtatious waiter in Paris! He complimented my French - always
nice to hear after not speaking much for many months. When Elena left
me alone at the table he came over to see how everything was and then
leaned over my chair and said, "en français, quand une femme est trop
belle on dit qu'elle est sublime. Vous êtes sublime." I am pretty sure
my face got very pink and then I thanked him for the compliment. He
really did not want us to leave and asked if he would see us again
soon (he won't). It was a very nice way to start our trip!!!

Atlanta

2010-05-08T19:52:00.001-07:00

I went to Atlanta last weekend to see two very dear friends of mine.
On this trip I didn't have to fly alone because Caroline was with me!
We spent a lovely weekend with Susan and Corey and their adorable
hound mix, Elvis. They fed us ridiculous amounts of delicious food.
The best part was spending time with good friends. I can't wait to go
back to Atlanta!!!

Home...

2010-04-23T10:58:00.001-07:00

I am halfway through with my traveling today. Two ferries down and one
plane ride to go. It is rainy in St Thomas - feels natural since I
landed in the rain in Mexico. And it sounds like I will arrive in
similar weather this evening in New York. I will miss impromptu
moonlit swims (Elena's idea!) in the ocean and waking up with views of
the ocean.

I'm off

2010-04-22T22:45:00.000-07:00

In an hour I will leave Virgin Gorda. Everyone else has already left
so I am here alone this morning. This has been such a woderful trip -
from Mexico to Virgin Gorda.

Yesterday we were very low key. The day started and ended on the beach
with some pool time in between. I am so happy I got to spend all this
time with my friends! Now it's all over and I have a long day of
travel ahead of me. Off to the ferry!

I'm on a boat!!!

2010-04-21T04:31:00.000-07:00

Day Two

2010-04-20T10:37:00.000-07:00

Virgin Gorda is still amazing. Today we went to a different beach.
There were huge boulders everywhere. It was so humid that we just swam
around as long as we could.

Tomorrow we are going on a catamaran in the morning (I really hope I
don't get sick). Hopefully we'll be taken to some great snorkeling
spots!!

Morning

2010-04-18T23:01:00.000-07:00

I am sitting outside our house on Virgin Gorda with Elena after an
amazing night's sleep and a wonderful dinner. My three friends picked
me up last evening and escorted me to our cute little villa. I took a
shower and when I emerged Elena handed me a glass of pink champagne
(Elena came very prepared!). It was so good to sit and catch up with
everyone. I am so happy to be here. I look forward to a relaxing day
by the pool and the beach.

Virgin Islands

2010-04-18T12:24:00.000-07:00

Today has been one of the most u pleasant travel days of my life. I
left the hotel at 3am to get to the Cancun airport where I got in a
fight with the security people over a metal clamp I use for jewelry.
While I was arguing with him over that another security began removing
half of my toiletries. I got so frustrated after five minutes that I
dropped the clamp on the metal table (which made such a loud noise
that another passenger said, 'wow') and told the security man, 'take
it. Just take it'. Maybe too dramatic, but I was so tired and felt
sick from dinner the night before. After that I left my kindle on the
plane when we landed in Miami and was unable to recover it. I almost
cried, but was able to hold it all in.

And now I am waiting to board a ferry to meet my wonderful friends on
Virgin Gorda. I get four relaxing days in the sunshine. I won't have
my books to read, but I will be so so happy to just soak everything in.

Sun (sort of)

2010-04-17T06:51:00.001-07:00

It has been a rainy and miserable couple of days. When it is not
pouring down buckets at a time we sit in various hot tubs to stay
warm. Last night we hung out with lots of really nice people and
commiserated over this weather. We did see some super drunk men
comparing tattoos. That provided conversation material the rest of the
evening.

This morning I woke up and peeked out the window and started jumping
up and down at the sight of sun! I woke Lindsay who also jumped up and
down in joy. By the time we got our suits on and headed outside the
clouds were back. As long as they are not storm clouds.....

Mexico!

2010-04-15T16:15:00.000-07:00

Lindsay and I arrived in Mexico today and it is grey and rainy! Thank
goodness for coke light! It is possibly my favorite beverage in the
world - what is unattainable is always the most desirable. We had a
nice afternoon despite the weather and met some very friendly people
in the hot tub this afternoon. Lindsay is possibly the most optimistic
person I have traveled with and if the gods listen to her it will be
sunny and beautiful tomorrow.

Baby Parrot

2010-02-22T08:55:00.000-08:00

Our hotel in Granada was home to a couple of little green parakeets and two larger parrots like this one. I never saw the older and larger parrot, but I did see lots of the younger, newer addition. My first morning in Granada I woke up to find this parrot sitting on top of a chair outside my room. He sang the same three notes my childhood cockateal sang and so I whistled to him. He seemed to like this and walked along the top of the chair to me and then lifted up his foot. I took this to mean he wanted a lift (his wings were clipped) and put out my hand. He hopped on and looked at me while making chatty little bird noises. I walked towards the main courtyard where his food was waiting and showed Papa my new friend. The fun didn't last for long however, as he had made his way up to my shoulder and refused to get down! The manager eventually came over to forcibly remove him from me. Matt and Papa were no help. They thought it was just too funny.

That evening when we got back from our day hiking in the cloud forest the parrot was sitting in the courtyard and whistled to us. I whistled back and I think he must have remembered me because after I walked back to my room to shower I heard him outside. He had followed me and was sadly standing on the ground looking up at me. I had learned my lesson that morning and would not pick him up, so he settled for standing on my feet. It was so cute, but sad at the same time. Everywhere I walked he tried to run after me while pathetically squawking. After a while I hid in my room with the hope that he would eventually find a new mommy to imprint on.

Mombacho

2010-02-20T10:58:00.000-08:00

This morning we went to Volcan Mombacho. It is high up in a cloud
forest so while we were unable to see far, the forest was filled with
orchids and moss and thick with trees. It was even chilly up there! We
walked around the crater up steep, wet wooden steps. I managed to stay
on my feet and not plummet way, way down. Thank goodness.

Granada

2010-02-19T19:59:00.000-08:00

Today we dropped Joe off at the airport and made our way to Granada. We stopped at the Masaya volcano - it is still active and we were not able to get a great view due to all the sulphurous smoke. It is not a very high volcano - just a really big crater. After walking around the lip of the crater we drove to the oter side to meet up with a guide who took us into a cave. I really don't like the idea of being deep underground near an active volcano, but decided to tough it out. We were given little construction helmets and very weak flashlights before hiking down into the cave. The ground was damp and craggy and there were fruit bats above. We walked 200 meters into the cave until it opened up quite a bit. The guide told us that this was where virgins used to be sacrificed to the volcano. And then he had us turn out all our flashlights so that we could see how dark it really is. I inched closer to papa and grabbed his hand. It was so dark that I felt as if it was closing in on me. My breaths came deeper and faster until I just couldn't stand it and had to switch on my light. I was happy to turn back and walk towards the light.

We arrived in Granada this afternoon after lunch overlooking a beautiful lake in another volcano crater. A walk through the city and central square left me feeling sticky and gritty (kind of like NY in the summer!). It was nice to use a real shower and not have to layer on sunscreen or bug spray after.

One more day in Nicaragua before home. I am going to try and soak up all the warm weather I can!!

2010-02-19T19:40:00.000-08:00

Nicaragua is a wonderful place. We have been in a few different places
now and I have enjoyed everything. The first night was the hardest. We
stayed one night in Masaya at a little hotel before heading to the
coast. I did not like the look of my room from the start. As I crawled
up the bed I kept telling myself 'i've slept in worse places. I'll be
fine. So long as there are no bugs." I pulled back the coverlet and a
scorpion was scared from its hiding place!! It was a baby scorpion,
but they can still sting (fortunately I did not find out how hard they
sting)! After a thorough search for other critters turned up nothing I
was able to put it out of mind and get to sleep just fine, thankfully.

The next day we drove to the Pacific coast to Los Cardones surf lodge
where Joe joined us. It turned out to be a beautiful and peaceful
spot. We were in little cabins with no electricity (they did provide
very important mosquito nets that also keep out scorpions). The beach
was endless and empty. Perfect. Each morning we took a long walk
before the real heat set in. It was a gift to walk on a beach so clean
and empty. We took a surf lesson on Tuesday from Austin, the young and
very nice surf guy/bartender. It was hard. The waves were rough. As
difficult as it was we all had fun.

Four days with no electricity or distractions was lovely. I turned my
phone off and forgot about everything for days. I think I will miss
the peace and quiet almost as much as the beautiful beach and waves.

Nicaragua!!

2010-02-15T08:11:00.000-08:00

I am in Nicaragua with Matt and Papa. We spent the first night in a
town called Masaya. This is the outside of a little market that we
walked to. I didn't find anything but Matt bought some Nicaraguan
cigars and Papa found a hat.

We are off to the Pacific where we will attempt to surf! I am not sure
how it will work out for me but we'll be on a beach on the ocean!

Au revoir, Paris

2009-11-23T08:31:00.001-08:00

I am at the airport all alone. No more cousins (though I'll see Elena
tomorrow). I have SO much time before my flight so I got a manicure.
They turned out like Barbie nails!!

I had such a great time in Paris with John and Elena, but can't wait to sleep in my own bed tonight. There's nothing like returning home.

R.I.P. Blanca

2009-11-21T16:47:00.001-08:00

My beloved family dog died today. I am so devastated and cannot stop crying. She was the sweetest dog and I loved her so so much. I will miss her forever. These are photos I took of her on Madeline Island this September. It was one of the places that made her happiest, I think.

2009-11-21T06:36:00.001-08:00

This afternoon Elena and I went to buy food for dinner tonight. On the way we stopped at the Pâtisserie des Rêves. It is a beautiful little pastry shop not far from our apartment that a friend told me about. We were very hungry for lunch but knew that we wouldn't be able to eat proper food for a while, so we bought brioches.

The most delicious, flaky brioches! It did kind of spoil my appetite for lunch, but it was worth it! Everything in the shop looked so pretty. They even have baking kits to take home with you.

We went to the Grand Epicerie to buy food for dinner and got sidetracked looking at the beautiful shellfish! I have never seen so many scallops in their shells. I didn't have my phone so Elena took photos for both of us. There was a young French man taking photos next to Elena. I have never seen food displayed so beautifully as at the Grand Epicerie.

John requested two Bresse chickens, so we went to pick them up. I watched as the butcher chopped off he head (with feathers and beak and everything) and then the still scaly feet. Even though it was hard to watch, I couldn't not. It was fascinating.

Samedi

2009-11-21T03:06:00.001-08:00

We tried many times to get a good photo of the two of us, but this is the best we could do. I love that Elena seems SO happy and excited that she can't stand still!! This was taken right after we got our awesome boots, so maybe that's what has her all hyped up?

Yesterday we had a two and a half hour lunch at Taillevent. It was delicious and luxurious. There were so many different people waiting on us!! The manager (at least I think he was tw manager) was adorable! He first complimented my tattoo - never happens here - and then when he heard that we came from the states, lifted his lapel to show me a tiny, hidden American flag pin. He then tapped it and said, "toujours ici". It was so adorable!!

Tonight we are having a little dinner party. I have four friends who all happen to be in Paris at the same time so John is going to cook us a delicious meal! Elena and I are going out soon to buy some cheese and delicious desserts, as one can only find in Paris. I can't wait to see everyone!!

Chaussures

2009-11-20T02:19:00.000-08:00

We have been having a wonderful time here in beautiful Paris. John, Elena and I are in a cozy, well-appointed apartment in the 6th. The weather has been beautiful and sunny - perfect for walking through the city. John has been enjoying all the food and wine while Elena and I plan our shopping trips. The first thing I saw in the Bon Marche was an amazing pair of Vanessa Bruno boots. I decided to give myself a day to think about them so as to avoid any impulse purchases. I didn't have to think long. Yesterday both Elena and I got them (it took visits to three different shops, but we found them!). The minute I got back to the apartment I put them on and practically pranced with joy. While John thinks we are ridiculous to 'torture' ourselves in such a way, he still offered to take a pretty picture for this blog.

Very different from my photos of elephants and African adventures, but just as beautiful to me!!!

Today we are headed to Taillevent for a delicious and indulgent lunch. We are all dressed up and looking quite respectable - I'm leaving the new boots at home, though, so I can walk off my lunch this afternoon.

Paris, je t'adore!!

2009-11-19T08:33:00.001-08:00

2009-08-15T13:19:00.000-07:00

On Monday I got back from Botswana. I did a river safari (a Trans-Okovango) in the Okovango Delta. Last year around this time I went on a TO with mom and Elena and we had such a fabulous week that we decided to book another trip this year. Mom did not come this time, but my brother Matt came along with new additions Ellen and Josh. It was another wonderful week on the river.

This was my third trip to Africa and I was thinking positive the whole month leading up to it. I told myself that in the month of June I had seen all the travel problems and would see no more for at least another year. This was not to be. We landed in Johannesburg and my bag was not there. Big bummer. The next day we flew on to Botswana (the airline people assured me my bag would make it there within 36 hours). It was great to see Elena - even better to see the clean clothing she had for me to wear. For the next two days we went as a group to the airport to wait for our bags (Josh and Ellen were also missing their luggage). Air Botswana were no help. I grew accustomed to hearing such things as, "I cannot help you", "Maam, if your bags were put on the plane they would be here", and "Your bags are not here". All said with no sympathy and very little care. We went on the trip without the luggage (since no one could tell us when our bags would arrive) and it became the subject of many jokes. I was extremely happy to see it finally when we got back to Maun after our week on the river. In the meantime, the views were so beautiful as to make me forget the dirty clothes I was wearing...

We saw many elephants on the river this year. Many more than last year. We even got to see a few cross the river. It is so beautiful to see these huge animals move. They are surprisingly graceful and quiet.

This photo (above) is not metered correctly and not a favorite, but I decided to post it anyway. We took a walk with Captain after lunch one day and came upon this elephant. He kept moving closer to us, which was exciting, but scary. As I was taking this photo Elena was yelling at me to move because the elephant was getting too close. They move very fast for such large animals. It is amazing how much more secure one feels on a boat with a powerful engine than on human legs.

In the photo above you can see a Fish Eagle. They are the chickens of the Okovango (Elena told me that). They are everywhere. Their prevalence does not diminish their beauty to me.

This is Josh (in the turban) and Elena fishing. Matt is probably sculpting a hyena or a hippo - only the scary animals.

We saw so many vulchures on our last afternoon (I am going to say hundreds). They were in the air and on the trees. There must have been a fresh kill on the ground.

As I have said, it was a wonderful trip. I really enjoyed spending time with my brother and cousin and also getting to know Ellen and Josh. Five days on a small boat is a great way to get to know people quickly (missing baggage also makes for good bonding). We are already planning our trip next year.

Malawi

2009-07-25T20:12:00.000-07:00

I got my 35mm film back today. While most people now use digital cameras (and I do understand why) I still love my old Nikon. Papa gave it to me for my 14th birthday and it still works beautifully. One thing I love about film is the anticipation. I took these photos of a witch doctor ceremony at the beginning of our trip and have been waiting anxiously to see how they turned out. I am very pleased with the photos. We sat in a small room with all the people seen in these photos and listened to them sing together and dance. It was so interesting to see. Perhaps not the most authentic since we paid them to perform for us. Though we were there to watch them we were just as interesting to them. Not a lot of white women in Malawi.

If you look at the picture above you can see the woman on the right nursing her son. At one point there were about four women nursing in the room. Elena told me that breasts are not considered an erogenous zone down there. Obviously they are way too hum-drum. It's all about the legs in Malawi.

We went to a town market in Ngala to look for the beautiful printed fabrics all the women wear around their waists. Though we did not find any that we liked we did buy oranges and bananas. As Elena was bargaining down the price I took photos of these men with their bikes. The people in Malawi are very friendly and happy to have their photo taken.

This is where they sell the meat. On the left is the swaddled head of the cow and the wheelbarrow contains the innards. I was happy to stand and look from afar but Elena got right in there and checked it all out.

It is wonderful to look back at these photos and remember all the great things Elena and I did!

Kinderhook

2009-07-06T08:22:00.000-07:00

These are apple cider donuts. It has become a tradition to go get them every time we visit Kinderhook - they are so delicious I can't imagine this is at all original.

Fourth of July in Kinderhook was wonderful. We had perfect weather and made sure to spend as much time as possible outside. On Saturday we went to the Jagermeister Derby, a local event. One of out group even won! There was a big Jagermeister themed party afterwards. One of their toys is a ShotSki (doesn't that sound Minnesotan?). Here is a picture of the amazing contraption:

I can't wait for our next trip up to Kinderhook.

Home

2009-06-24T19:43:00.000-07:00

I am home in Brooklyn now and happy to be here, though sad without my travel buddy. I loaded all the photos from my phone today and had so much fun looking over everything. It is pretty amazing to think that a month ago Elena and I were in Malawi! I will slowly post some of my other photographs from the trip, but found these two on my phone and thought they were worth sharing today - and they remind of all the fun we had.

On our drive back to Lilongwe (the last day of our time in Malawi) we saw many people selling sugar cane on the side of the road. Elena suggested we buy some to see what it was like (all those people with blackened teeth didn't deter her). We did not think about the logistics of buying a five foot piece of sugar cane and eating it in a moving car. Since Elena was driving it was up to me to break it into smaller pieces. I managed to break it into smaller-ish pieces, but not small enough to make things easy. I thought the moment deserved commemorating. Here are some pictures of us trying to eat sugar cane in the car.

Paris?

2009-06-22T06:11:00.000-07:00

I am in an airport hotel in Paris for the night. I wish I were on my
way home by now but am stuck here. A wonderful man from British
Airways took me around and made sure I got a free hotel room and my
bag. He then walked me to the shuttle and made sure I knew how to get
to the hotel. So so sweet. He was my savior when no one else wanted to
help. Maybe it was the tears in my eyes that did it.

Last night Elena and I went out to dinner with our new friends (the
same girls I went around with when she was sick). Chetna, Indu and
Anuja came with us to Cafe Clock to have dinner and listen to music.
They wanted to go get a drink somewhere but the people at our Dar told
us the only women who do that are prostitutes. It was a really fun
evening. Anuja and I were told by a 12 year old that we are beautiful.
It was creepy. Just a warning: if you go to Fes and decide to eat at
Cafe Clock DON'T eat the chickpea salad. It will come back to haunt
you. Over and over and over.

I am very sad to be stuck here without Elena. I felt lost running
around the airport without my travel buddy. It's ok, though. We're
already planning future trips.

Bye bye Africa

2009-06-21T08:48:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow morning Elena and I will be off home and very happy to do so.
I have really enjoyed Morocco but it is very hard to be so different.
We stand out here and it attracts a lot of attention. On our stroll
this afternoon we got many calls and comments (more than usual) and
there were some very agressive people. One man said things to me that
were so vulgar I can't write them here. I am still shaken. If I were
in my home town I would know how to react. Here I don't know what to
do but be passive and walk away. Anything more could attract more
unwanted attention. It was much easier with a protective guide
yesterday. I will try and remember the kind people here and the
beautiful things I have seen.

Fes Sunset

2009-06-21T01:49:00.000-07:00

One more day in Fes! Tomorrow we leave for home.

Last night was a big family style dinner at the Dar. It was on the
roof and really beautiful.

Tanneries

2009-06-20T08:43:00.000-07:00

We visited the tannery in Fes today and it was very cool to see but
smelled TERRIBLE!! They gave us mint to smell and I practically shoved
it up my nostrils to block out the smell. They use pigeon poop to
clean and soften the hides. That's where the stink comes from.

2009-06-20T08:40:00.000-07:00

This is one of the very narrow alleyways we walked through today. Our
guide warned us not to eat too much couscous.

Elena didn't feel well today so she stayed in the hotel to rest. I was
invited by a very nice trio of girls (two sisters and their cousin) to
join them. We had a lovely time but I did miss Elena.

Mosque

2009-06-20T08:36:00.000-07:00

This is one of the doorways to the mosque in Fes.

Shame On Her

2009-06-19T07:49:00.000-07:00

This is a picture from lunch today. The woman in the middle ground
took out a plastic bag, placed it in her lap and snuck the leftover
fruit from her deasert in it. We thought it was very tacky and so I am
putting this picture up - plus you can see the pretty restaurant and
our delicious salads.

Our Riad is very near the main mosque in Fes. It is called the
Kairaouine Mosque and was built in the 9th century. It is huge (almost
11,000 sq feet) but we are not allowed in. We did walk by on our way
to lunch and the doors were open. I caught a few glimpses of endless
archways and beautiful tilework. Fes feels like a very ancient city.
We are in a section of re Medina where cars can't enter. It's just
lots and lots of tiny winding streets. So different from anything I
have seen before.

Our train ride yesterday was hot and long. The air conditioning
basically quit halfway through. Because we were on the train from
start to finish we had a rotating selection of companions. There was a
very nice couple from Palo Alto who we chatted with until Casablanca.
Quite a few people sat in the empty seats but were eventually ousted
by the conductor and sent back to second class. A bus driver told me
about Fes and his relative in Tacoma before he got booted. By the time
we reached Fes I was hot and sticky and just wanted a cold shower.
Elena and I were both snippy and a bit grouchy by the time we reached
the hotel.

Marrakesh

2009-06-17T10:23:00.000-07:00

Elena rode a camel (well an animal related to the camel, but with one
hump - I forget the name). She is watching it pee in this photo. I did
not ride one because I wore a dress today. And it was fun to watch her
hold on!!

For the past two days we have been led around Marrakesh by Jalil, our
very sweet guide. I think he liked us because he took to saying,
'okay, family, let's go'. He took us to the Bahia Palace (former
residence of a prime minister) where we saw painted ceilings, amazing
tile work and the typical (but no less resplendent) carved plaster
archways. He also explained the intricacies of polygamy in the
Moroccan culture. Not to be taken on lightly.

Jalil also took us into the souk - an intricate winding network of
workshops, galleries, restaurants and shops. We found some small
things and some bigger things that are hopefully already on their
long, slow trek to Brooklyn. It was fun to see, but exhausting!
Bargaining is hard work.

Tomorrow we take the train to Fes. It will take up to 8 hours but we
look forward to watching the landscape change as we read and play
cards (we even bought an Uno deck and have become quite competitive!).
And it is air conditioned!!!

House of Storks

2009-06-16T01:48:00.000-07:00

We are saying at Dar les Cigognes in Marrakesh (it means house of
storks). Named for the many many many storks that nest on the wall of
the royal palace across the road. They are big and dirty and make
funny sounds. Our Riad has a beautiful roof garden where we ate
breakfast this morning. It has a beautiful view of the medina.

We learned how to say no in Arabic and I am going to use it on the
'naughty Moroccan boys' (that is the concierge's phrase) and anyone
armed with henna.

Marrakesh

2009-06-15T03:34:00.000-07:00

We finally arrived in Marrakesh after a day long delay. Our Riad is
beautiful. This morning Elena and I took ourselves for a stroll. We
walked to the Place Jamaa Fna (I think that's what it's called). It is
at the southern end of the souk and filled with carts selling produce.
As we were walking through a woman, Fatima, came up to me and
attempted to sell her henna design services. I kept telling her 'no,
thank you' and she showed me where we would be if I changed my mind. I
thought I had successfully put her off, but then she grabbed my hand
and squirted a blob of henna on it!! Her grip was firm and I had to
tug my hand away while yelling, 'no, no, no!! S'il vous plait, non!!!'
Not quite as bad as being peed on by a dog, but I don't have the
energy today to fend off too many more attacks by henna. We strolled a
bit more and then decided to get some mint tea. On the way to the
salon de the we were offered a monkey! He has no tail and that makes
me sad. Off to the hammam this afternoon.

Shells pt. 2

2009-06-13T10:36:00.000-07:00

I recently wrote about the strict laws in Mozambique barring the
export of shells by tourists. Yesterday I flouted the rules and
smuggled shells out!! It was risky (kind of) and uncomfortable. I put
a piece of coral in my bra and wrapped some of the smaller shells I
found in a handkerchief and stuffed it in my underwear. Once I got
past security safely I whispered to Elena what I had done. After more
than four hours of flying like this it was a relief to remove
everything and place it in my bag. Now I have some very beautiful and
memorable mementos of Mozambique!

Drunk Men

2009-06-12T22:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a big travel day. We were picked up in a Cessna Caravan
and taken to Medjumbe to pick up another couple headed to Pemba for
the Joburg flight. We had to wait out some storm clouds on Medjumbe.
When we got to the bar to sit and wait we saw a few of the party of
Russians who arrived after we left for Matemo. As we sat at the bar
many more large, old, shirtless Russians joined their friends. The
liquor flowed and they were eventually joined by a very pretty, young,
happy girl. She was very affectionate with one of them - because she
is paid to be!!! The Russians not only flew in on their own jet, they
brought a hooker with them as well! Elena took some surreptitious
photos, so check her blog to see some of the men
(sitatungadispatches.tumblr.com).

We eventually made it to Pemba and onto the plane for Joburg. I had a
middle seat in between Elena and a Christian missionary from South
Africa. She told us of her work over the past two weeks and miracles.
Though I do not believe in miraculous healing, it is always good to
meet people with so much faith (as long as they don't try and pull me
in). She moved to an empty row and Elena and I spread out and prepared
to spend the flight playing cards and reading. We were constantly
distracted by the four men two rows ahead of us. During the course of
the two and a half hour flight they consumed about four mini bottles
of scotch each and many, many beers. They were loud and obnoxious and
kept looking back at us, as if their behavior would endear us to them.
They even pulled out their camera and filmed us! So creepy. As we
exited the plane they attempted some catcalls in English and one even
blew us a kiss before exchanging hi-fives with his equally intoxicated
buddy. I definitely prefer sweet missionaries to drunk old men.

2009-06-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

This afternoon we were driven to a few of the villages on the island
(only the ones accessible by road). The children LOVE having their
pictures taken - almost as much as they like us to show them the
pictures after. At one point I had a gaggle of them fighting to fit in
the frame. I had to back away and tell them to stay put so I could
take their picture without them trampling me.

Matemo

2009-06-11T05:23:00.000-07:00

This is a shell on display in the lobby at Matemo but is very similar
to one I found on Medjumbe. Elena and I walked far, far out during low
tide looking for shells while on Medjumbe. We found many beautiful
things and were so proud (grandma taught us well) but then we were
told that it is illegal to bring shells back from Mozambique! I made
sure to take pictures of all the pretty shells I found. If only I
could figure out a way to bring some of the smaller ones back......

This morning we braved the rough seas to go kayaking. It was fun, but
hard work. For anyone who follows Elena's blog, you may hear a
different side to this story. I want to state that I did not intend
for Elena to tip over. I was playfully pushing her kayak away and
believe that she then became unbalanced by the big waves. I will admit
to paddling away from her as quickly as I could, but that was only
because I feared retaliation. When she called to me I turned around to
help her - the water was not deep. Only just over waist deep. And
there was lots of laughter on both our parts. We made it back to shore
in very good spirits, though one of us was much more wet than the other.

Sunset

2009-06-10T09:16:00.000-07:00

The sun is setting in Matemo and Elena and I are headed to the bar for
drinks.

Sea urchins

2009-06-10T05:29:00.000-07:00

This is a tide pool (during low tide) filled with sea urchins. I have
never before seen such extremes between high tide and low tide.

Friends

2009-06-10T05:18:00.000-07:00

Elena posed a very difficult question to me as we were flying into
Medjumbe. She said, 'Katy, what would you prefer: sea turtles or
kittens?' I realized at that moment that we are getting to know each
other really well.